A Korean Wedding

'Do I really want to do this?' I asked myself, as I was donning another layer of the hanbok, Korea's traditional formal attire.  Nonetheless, I have raised too many expectations for me to back out now.  Knowing Korea's penchant for elegant practicality, I knew I will get through this alright.

The notice-board at the luxury hotel was cryptic:  "Wedding 13:00-15:00".   For me, coming from the Israeli culture of lax arrivals and dancing till sunrise, this was an impossible statement.

A jazz trio played old standards, as friends and family, some of which I previously met, gathered in the flowery ballroom.  At 13:01 all guests were already seated, and the ceremony, which followed a western script, commenced.  From that point on, nothing was left to chance.  Every second was choreographed by a group of sharply dressed attendants, that hovered over the scene, directing every move and gesture.  The occasional interruptions in the flow, were to allow one of the attendants to rush to the bride, re-arrange the folds of her dress, and make her perfect for the next photo.  The bride's university professor conducted the ceremony, and gave a short speech advising the couple to contribute their talents to society.  Soon it was time to cut the cake and throw the flowers to a designated recipient (She didn't catch it, and the throw was repeated.)  Only the bride's younger sister, who could not contain her tears, demonstrated a visible emotion.

The attractive food  ($120 per plate) was served by a horde of waiters, who did not let an empty plate linger more than a minute.  I liked the wine, a rarity in Korea.

By 15:01 the last guest left the wedding hall.

I missed the drinking and dancing of Israeli weddings, but was compensated by the after-wedding ceremony, where the young couple, wearing elaborate traditional costumes, honored the groom's parents and accepted their blessing.  Mazal Tov.

          

Korea Snippets

Talking Heads
I assume most city dwellers are by now oblivious to talking elevators, but Korean talking machines may amaze even those that are not country bumpkins from Oaxaca.
  • Subway announcements are common around the world, but bus stations that audibly predict the next arrival?
  • The rice cooker never fails to inform us of its intentions, and its impending release of steam.  
  • As I was fiddling with controls of the automated toilet seat, I believe it was trying to warn me that I am about to receive an ass-splitting water jet.  Unfortunately, the warning came in Korean. 
  • I was amazed by the sight of a large dumpster talking to a neighborhood matron.  It politely (very important in Korea) accepted her garbage bag, confirmed her apartment number, and thanked her.  She will be charged based on the weight of her garbage.
When will we get listening machines?  "Last time, the rice was too hard.  Make it softer".

Culinary Tourism
Koreans, fiercely love Korea.  Those few that were not born in or around Seoul, feel great pride for their home town.  To merit this pride, each city claims some special characteristics, not the least of which is its local cuisine.  Seoulites often visit the outlying cities with the declared purpose of  sight-seeing, but with a clear plan to sample the famous local dish.  These celebrity dishes can also be found in Seoul, but acquired a special renown in their designated location.

So far I made three such culinary trips
Bibimbap (Jeonju.  Three hours by bus)
If any dish merits the title of the Korean National Dish, it is bibimbap.  Rice served in a scolding-hot stone bowl, topped with five colors of vegetables.  Spicy red pepper sauce is added, and the combination is mixed thoroughly before eating.  It is said that the founder of the last ruling dynasty, invented this dish while on the battlefield.  Jeonju was his home town.



Dak Galbi (Chuncheon.  One hour by car, which became four hours due to traffic heading to a huge Jazz festival)
Not to be confused with the usual Galbi.  Boneless chicken meat, cabbage, sweet potato, green onion, rice cake, and spices, chopped together at your table, on a sizzling two-feet skillet.  Like galbi, you pick a morsel,  wrap it with a lettuce leaf, and stuff the large package into your mouth.



Soondae (Abai Island. Sokcho city.  Three hours by car)
The Abai version of blood sausage, is mixed with squid meat.  The unanimous verdict of  Adi's family was "Thumbs down".   Fortunately, the main motivation of this trip was to view the fall foliage of Soraksan National Park, which was fabulous.