Kilometer 17 (A Bora village)

"I am the boss here!  Who are you?"

She was not an amazon, but we were deep in the Amazon forest, and she carried a machete.

Kobi and I, walked a long way to get here, and we were not ready to turn back.

We quickly resolved the mutual misunderstandings, and she escorted us to the maloca (The community central hut)













                   
"Pease sit down" said Henry, her son.

The maloca was nice an cool.

Henry partook of some mambe, and proceeded to tell his family's story.

Twenty years ago, his mother Aurelia, established this community. 

Living here are:

• Five sons (and family)
• A brother
• An ex-husband
• A boyfriend.

(She was the boss) 




He talked about mambe.


The Bora use it to sharpen the senses and enhance their connection to nature.

To prepare it, Coca leaves are roasted...

combined with the ash of another plant...

and filtered, to form a very fine powder.

Henry invited us to try it.
First, we smeared a dab of concentrated tobacco juice on our tongue: It was bitter.
Then, we placed a teaspoon of mambe powder in our cheek. (The regular quantity is a heaped tablespoon).

The fine powder floated in my mouth, and landed on my throat, causing sharp irritation and a feeling of suffocation.  Fortunately, a gulp of water cleared the discomfort.  With repetition, my skill improved, and I could mambe larger quantities without distress. 

My tongue and lips grew numb, yet my fatigue disappeared, and I became a more active participant in the conversation.  I don't know about the connection to nature.

Lunch was served in Aurelia's kitchen,














The kitchen is the gathering place for the community women.  (The maloca is for men)

(Hiding, is Kobi's adopted granddaughter.)

Left: Unfamiliar tropical fruit juice
On the plate:
    Fish in banana leaves
    Fried yucca
    Casabe (Yucca bread)
Right:  Farini (Ground yucca)

Despite the mambe, our appetite was not affected.

I love yucca!



For dessert, we walked outside, picked a ripe pineapple, smashed it into a tree trunk, and dipped our fingers into its honey-sweet flesh.