I fell in love with Chiang Mai twenty years ago after escaping from Bangkok's excessive sights, sex, and smog. Pleasant, friendly, and interesting, Chiang Mai was also a convenient gateway for adventures in other parts of Northern Thailand. The attraction persisted for several years. I even considered teaching in the local university. Then, as often happens in love, I found new interests, and stopped coming.
Many years later, in search of a place to call home, I am back. Approaching Chiang Mai, I braced myself for the encounter with an old love, when the sight of the wrinkled face and grey hair are a painful reminder of our own transitions. The heavy traffic was the first sign of aging, but it was anticipated, and therefore tolerable. Walking in the walled town center, I was dismayed by the throngs of tourists that over-filled the streets and alleys. They were not the young Israeli and European backpackers of my time, but Laptop-toting "flashpackers" of all nationalities who come to Chiang Mai for conveniently packaged, safe adventures. She is no longer mine alone. Maybe she never was. It took a couple more days for me to notice that Chiang Mai has also lost its friendly Thai smile. The years of dealing with grumpy tourists have taken their toll.
My young passion is gone, but is Chiang Mai still lovable? To many who call it home, the answer is a clear Yes. Some found employment here. Others just enjoy the low cost and pleasant climate. I met several of the latter at our guesthouse which offers social networking in addition to monthly rates. Trish and Gary retired nine years ago from teaching in the US. They stay here year-round, and even convinced their adult children to come. They enjoy the culinary adventures of Chiang Mai. The street stalls still provide cheap and tasty Thai staples, while a large number of new restaurants offer a choice of high quality Thai or international cuisine. Hedva and Yoram, on the other hand, avoid the hot and smoky spring which they spend in Israel. They love to travel, and during their stay here, they set out to other Asian destinations. To them Chiang Mai, though small in size, offers a cultural scene that compares well to major metropolitan areas. Clubs and classes are available in everything from A (Art) to Z (Zen). Cooking and Massage classes are the most popular. Bill, a bearded Vietnam Vet, like many other single men residing here, loves Thai women. In fact, over the years, he had five "wives". He visits his wives and children in the houses he built for them in their native villages. Young or old, married or single, they all love Chiang Mai and were happy to share their enthusiasm.
As for me? I can appreciate and enjoy the wide array of activities offered here. I still miss the smile. However, from time to time, usually after a halting attempt to say something in Thai, I can see it shining on my host face. I believe that another, more mature, love can grow again.
