Pilgrim

I saw him sipping his morning coffee.  A fit, suntanned man, wearing a trimmed white beard, and neatly pressed travel-wear.  Behind him, the dramatic view of Muxia Bay marked the western edge of  the continent.  I picked up a cafe-con-leche at the bar and was about to carry it to my room when I heard him call.
"Would you care to join me?"
His eyes were as blue as the Ocean, and I could not refuse the friendliness in his voice.  I  spent the rest of the day with Jonathan.  This is his story.

You called me Peregrino?
I am not sure I would call myself a pilgrim.  I didn't do it for religious reasons.  I started in [St Jean-]Pied-de-Port, and walked five weeks to reach [Santiago De] Compostela.  I am waiting for my girlfriend to get here.  On the last day, descending to Compostela, my knees went out.  She was going to join me for the last leg, from Compostela to the Ocean.  She decided to do it alone.  I am bored here in Muxia.  Nothing to do.

I can't say that the Camino [The road to Compostela] was hard.  It's all in your mind.  When I started to walk, my mind was in a very bad shape.  I think I am ok now.  I did go to a few Vipassana [meditation] seminars.  It helped, but not enough.   Doing the Camino was the last resort.  Going over the Pyrenees to Pamplona may have been difficult.  It's a steep trail, sharp winds...  I can hardly remember any of it.  I was going crazy thinking about my girlfriend.  Mainly blaming myself for what happened.  We have been together for more than a year.  I love her very much, maybe too much.
You know how it is, when you really need someone?

I couldn't live without her.  I am sure she loves me too.  We had a wonderful relationship.  I didn't understand how she could break it up.  We had a catering business in Milwaukee, until she kicked me out.  It was actually her business, but I thought I was pulling my weight.  She said I hit her.  I don't know, maybe I did.  That night... the police came... it was ugly.  The next day, I collected my stuff, and moved in with my mother in San Diego.
Can you imagine a forty-six year old guy, living with his mother?

I stayed with my mom, because I couldn't function.  I was totally helpless.  I called Josie every night. She was annoyed.  Finally, she called me crazy, and told me not to call again.  I was crazy, I was sick.  Alcoholism is a disease, you know.  I drank a lot, I was dealing too.  I didn't notice as it got worse.

I do remember the Roman bridge at Puente del Reina.  It was early morning, the river was mirror-calm and the sun was just rising.  The round arches formed a perfect reflection in the water.  The two images joined to make the symbol for Infinity.  I realized that it's all a journey, nothing begins and nothing really ends.  I saw the holes the Romans built into the columns.  They allow the water to flow thorough without toppling the bridge.  I decided to make my mind the same way.
You are smiling?

That's ok.  It worked for me.

Over the following days, I gradually stopped obsessing about the past.  Instead, as I crossed the rolling hills and endless vineyards, I was obsessing on how to get Josie back.  Plans can drive you crazy too, but not as bad.

Talking about vineyards.  Did you visit the Irache Monastery?

I think that placing a fountain dispensing free wine, in front of an alcoholic, is a cruel joke.  Just kidding.

The alcohol thing was not easy.  They talk about the camaraderie of fellow travelers?  It develops at the hostels, over a glass of beer, or two.  A few times I almost broke down.  Eventually I learned to stay by myself.  In Burgoss, after visiting the gorgeous Cathedral, I called Josie.  She was calm, and was pleased to hear that I am doing the Camino.  She told me that if I get myself together, get a job, be able to support her, she will come and live with me by the beach.  She hates the cold in Milwaukee.  We decided that she would take a vacation, meet me in Compostela, and we will walk the last leg together.  After that, we'll see.

The road from Burgoss to Leon is flat, yellow, and hot.  Nothing to do or see.  No distractions.  To me it became like walking meditation.  I just focused on my steps.  I stopped obsessing about the past, I stopped worrying about the future.  I just walked.  When I reached the Leon Cathedral I was ready to absorb it.  The whole Cathedral enveloped in stained glass...  I was stunned.  First you feel the colors, than I walked around looking the images.  I sat under the incredibly tall arches, letting it sink in.  I don't know for how long.  At some point, I just knew that high above, there is someone looking after me.  A few days later, I reached the "Iron Cross".  At the start, like everyone else, I picked up a stone  and put it in my backpack.  Following tradition, I guess; nothing more.  Yet, as I tossed that stone on the large pile surrounding the cross, I felt that I got rid of my sickness.  I felt light, I was well.


The climb into Galicia felt easy.  I enjoyed the green hills and little hamlets.  Until that last hill.  My knees were so bad, I could hardly make it to the Cathedral.  I met Josie.  She was a bit formal, cool. I kind of expected it.  She decided to walk alone.  I am sure she is doing a lot of thinking, but I am not worried.  Whatever she decides, I know I will be fine.

I agreed with him.  He will be OK.

David

He stands tall and naked at the end of the long corridor.  Illuminated by the dome high above his head, he radiates confidence and determination.  The tourists, after standing hours in line, audibly gasp at the first sight of his magnificent, though slightly out of proportion body.  As the men among them approach closer, they are relieved to discover that they do not need to feel inferior.  The women, receptive to multiple details, continue to circle, and from behind, they come to the opposite conclusion.  Looking at his eyes, I could swear that his expression has changed in the years since I have last seen him.  What once was a steady gaze, mind focused on the angle and force required for a lethal throw, became a dipleased frown.

Is he annoyed by the swarm of tourists around him, or is he worried about his twin brother, who stands directly in his line of sight, a hundred meters to the South?  There, tourists are not a problem.  Despite the easy accessibility, only a few of them stop to stare and take photos.  However, standing on the square, he is constantly bombarded by marauding pigeons.  I carefully studied his streaked face.  There was no suffering or annoyance, just sympathy.  He too was looking straight South, across the river, towards the hill, where their bronze-cast brother stands.

His green body bears an uncomfortably-placed dark stain.  He looks pleadingly towards his brothers to the North as if saying "Could someone please help me wipe?'

The tourists at the summit sit and embrace on the steps, listening to a street artist doing Cat Stevens.  They watch the setting sun, totally ignoring the suffering David.

Product review 3: Lonely Planet Vs Rick Steves

After my trip to Guatemala, I compared  Lonely Planet (LP) to Rough Guide.
(http://isaacohel.blogspot.com/2010/01/new-testament.html).
On this trip to Spain, I loaded my kindle with both the LP guide and, Doron's favorite, Rick Steves (RS).  Now I realize that while LP and Rough Guide are similar guidebooks, Rick Steves' book is different from the two.  Below, I'll compare RS to LP, my bible.

Scope
LP is like an encyclopedia.  It has almost everything a traveler needs.  However just as in using an encyclopedia, you should seek data, not advice, from LP.  RS claims to be a "Personal guide in your pocket".  As such, he filters the data, and describes only what he thinks is important for you to see and do.

Audience
Due to its wide scope, LP does not need to focus on a particular demographic.  However, a tour guide needs to know his audience.  In my opinion, RS focuses on the middle aged, middle class American traveler.  Surprisingly, although I wouldn't describe myself that way, I found that RS guidance fit most of my needs.

Itinerary
LP provides enough data to travel anywhere. It provides only brief itinerary suggestions.  RS' book is structured around a tight, fast paced itinerary (Spain in three weeks).  Points of interest outside that itinerary are described only briefly, or not at all.  I was happy to accept RS' prioritization but not his schedule.  I like it slow, and I spent more than twice the time to see the sites in his itinerary.

Budget
LP:  Low to mid-budget travelers.
RS:  One notch higher.

Sleeping and eating
LP provides more hotel options, but due to the book's popularity they are often booked.  I found the online service of http://www.booking.com/ (or hostelworld.com for lower budget options) to be more helpful than either book.  RS likes to eat.  I enjoyed his personal style of reviewing restaurants.

Other
LP maps are impossible to read on the kindle, while RS hand-drawn maps are usable.
RS' website provides free, downloadable audio guides for important locations.  I played them on my kindle, and found them to be useful and fun.

Conclusions
First visit in a country:  RS
Subsequent visits, or extended time in one region:  LP
Adventure opportunities: LP
My choice:  I started in Spain using both books, and soon reverted to using only RS.  However, when I decided to linger in Galicia, RS had no information, and I used LP.  For my trip to Italy, I downloaded only RS.