Both Flamingos and Glaciers evoke fantastic and colorful images. One brings forth coral colors and tropical plains, the other, high mountain peaks. In Argentina, they inhabit the same lake. We encountered the flamingos on the way from our hotel to the center of El Calafate, a two-kilometer walk along the shores of Lake Argentino. It was a sunny but cold day, and we had to lean forward to overcome the fifty-km/hr headwind. Through my watering eyes, I saw birds along the waterline, which to my astonishment, were not white. Adi, who has the better eyesight, confirmed, "These are flamingos." Due to their short legs, she named them "Asian Flamingos" .
In town, we boarded the bus to Perito Moreno Glacier, which is the main, if not the only, reason tourists flock to this faraway place. The road to the glacier, which is on the far side of the lake, travels through another incompatible image, a cold desert. The land is flat and barren with windswept sand dunes adding to the surreal scene.
Perito Moreno Glacier has not been affected by global warming, and maintains its original size. The topography of the shore allows observation platforms to be placed a few hundred meters across the lake from the glacier, and its sheer size, awed us at first sight. From the platforms, the vertical hundred-meter high ice wall, seems within touch, and the hypnotic deep-blue light glowing from within the crevasses invite you to explore. Perito Moreno flows slowly to the lake, and every few minutes a loud roar can be heard. With some patience and luck, about a second before the thunder arrives, you can observe the spectacular event as a gigantic chunk of ice drops, almost in slow motion, into the water below.
(The photo's point of view is from the boat tour)
Bye Bye Buenos Aires
I love Buenos Aires. I love the friendly people, the energy, the cultural events, the great food, and on and on. It is a very livable city and despite its large size, most destinations are within easy reach. Although Porteños (as locals call themselves), love to complain (and warn foreigners) about crime in the city, we found it peaceful compared to large cities in Europe.
However, I can't conclude my last post from BA without mentioning one of its quirks. Porteños love dogs, and it seems that each resident has at least one. Since dogs don't like to "go" inside apartments, they need to be walked, thus providing opportunity for professional dog-walkers (See photo). Unfortunately, the many residents who like to walk their dogs themselves, have not yet internalized the plastic-bag-pickup routine. Thus, upon emerging from your air-conditioned apartment building, you are hit with the pungent smell of dog excrement. Avoiding the landmines on the tree-lined sidewalks, requires good vision, quick reactions, and great agility. All is forgotten, as you reach your neighborhood parilla (grill) and enjoy a chorizo steak with Malbec wine.
However, I can't conclude my last post from BA without mentioning one of its quirks. Porteños love dogs, and it seems that each resident has at least one. Since dogs don't like to "go" inside apartments, they need to be walked, thus providing opportunity for professional dog-walkers (See photo). Unfortunately, the many residents who like to walk their dogs themselves, have not yet internalized the plastic-bag-pickup routine. Thus, upon emerging from your air-conditioned apartment building, you are hit with the pungent smell of dog excrement. Avoiding the landmines on the tree-lined sidewalks, requires good vision, quick reactions, and great agility. All is forgotten, as you reach your neighborhood parilla (grill) and enjoy a chorizo steak with Malbec wine.
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