Hummustenango


An Israeli flag on a Guatemalan road, should have given me a hint of things to come. It didn't. I was just proud to learn that Solel Bo'ne is responsible for this excellent segment of the Trans-America Highway. We left the highway on winding road leading down to Lake Atitlan. Several famous travelers declared it to be the prettiest lake in the world. I have a few more lakes to visit before I can confirm their proclamation, but looking at the lake from above, I could easily accept it.

When we arrived at San Pedro La Laguna, I was surprised to find a Guatemalan town that could fit well on the Mekong. The sidewalks were lined with hand-written signs in Hebrew, and aromatic bars provided pillows and large-screen TVs. We followed a group of young Israelis into a shorefront restaurant called Hummus-Ya. We chose a table over the water, and admired the blue lake surrounded by high volcanoes. Hummus-Ya would become our favorite spot during our stay on Lake Atitlan. Maria, the Israeli owner/chef is married to the young French bartender, and employs an Italian cook. She plays only Reggae music and occasionally reads Tarrot cards. After a couple of days, I dared to ask her about the Tahini, which I could not obtain in Mexico. I was impressed to learn that she produces her own Tahini by grinding sesame seeds in a corn grinding station. Her falafel was excellent. Adi noted that my version of Hummus has a bit more lemon. After four days of Hummus and falafel, Adi renamed the place Hummustenango.

Laguna Chicabal


I found it easy to like Guatemalans. A casual eye contact leads to an animated exchange of "Buenos Dias", and if the greeting occurs while the parties are stationary, it is followed by an amiable conversation. It was hard for me to reconcile the mellow people who I met, with the guide-book warning of robberies and rapes on popular trails. Uncharacteristically, the Bible recommends hiring a guide for these hikes. The travel agency informed me that the trip to the Chicabal Volcano leaves at six am, and that the early departure is necessary to avoid the clouds that obscure the volcanoes later in the morning. We faced a dilemma. At an altitude of 2,300 meters, and despite the clear skies, Quetzaltenango is painfully cold in the morning. Adi and I decided to go on our own.

By eight am, after a hearty breakfast in Café Shalom, it was warm enough to start our trip. At the trailhead, Nemo looked up the steep dirt road and declared "I can do it". I let it maneuver us gingerly up the rutted path, and saved forty minutes of walking time. Hiking from the ranger station, the ascent warmed us up. We reached the rim just ahead of the clouds, and witnessed the hourly eruption of the neighboring volcano. On the other edge of the rim we got our first glimpse inside the crater. The view was breathtaking. Dense tropical vegetation lined the inner slopes, converging on a round emerald lake whose shore was decorated by several white beaches. Except for the birds, the forest was quiet. We admired the view in soft voices trying to maintain the peaceful atmosphere. Suddenly, a puff of mist appeared in the center of the lake, and before I could convince myself that it was really there, it vanished. I could understand why the Mayans believe that spirits inhabit this place.

A few hundred steps lead down to the shore. A light wind ruffled the surface, making it shimmer under the bright sun. I resisted the urge to plunge into the crystal clear water partly because I was not sure it was "spiritually correct", but mainly because of the cold air. On the path surrounding the lake we passed Mayan altars where the villagers left offerings of flowers and fruit. Suddenly, the silence was broken by human sounds. To my relief, those were the happy sounds of children. An indigenous family, a father and three kids, arrived along the path. The girls were pretty in their colorful costumes; the father carried a large machete. In the short conversation that followed, I inquired about the weapon.

He tried to put me at ease, "Do not worry, the machete is for cutting firewood, not against thieves. These days, the thieves do not come here."

We met the family again on the next beach. They were not performing a religious ceremony, but simply enjoying a family picnic in this wonderful surrounding. The children looked so happy, and so innocent. We sat nearby and philosophized over the merits of the simple life. Does it really lead to a happier life? Eventually we fell silent and observed the clouds as they worked their way over the rim and then slowly down towards the lake. Soon we were enveloped in mist. The rest of the walk took on a mystical quality. All sounds were muffled in the fog. The trees appeared as we approached, and disappeared behind us. Dead trunks in the water looked like imaginary creatures. The lake indeed became a sacred place.

Driving back, we passed a different family. Adults as well as small children walked hunched under the weight of huge bundles of firewood that extended well over their heads. This sight was a stark reminder that the simple life may be happy, but is definitely not easy.

Guatemala Salad

The city of Quetzaltenango (Place of Quetzal) is a surreal initiation to Guatemala. The public architecture is Neo-Classical, or in other words, a copy of Roman buildings. Yet the women walking besides the somber columns of the Temple to Minerva wear vibrantly colorful dresses, not Togas. It is the phosphorescent colors that caught my eye and provided the initial impression of Guatemala. No fashionable pastels here. I believed that the indigenous Traje of Guatemala can be found only on postcards or in remote mountain villages, yet here, in the second largest city, it is the everyday wear of most women. Without repeating the words "Glowing colors" it would be hard to describe the intricate designs of the hand woven skirt, the cloth belt or the embroidered Huipil (blouse), so I won't try. Except for the headdress, the traditional dress is worn by women and girls starting at a very early age. The headdress is reserved for the adults. It is a long cloth ribbon which is wrapped several times around their hair, and then adorned with tussles or pompons. Adding to the city's mixture is the proudly advertised Evangelical presence. It is painted in giant letters on all walls. We had breakfast in Café Shalom, fixed the cell phone in Israel Electronics, and took care of Nemo in Car Wash Elohim.

The cultural clash continued in Momostenango (Place of Peace) a highland town not far the city. Next to the Immanuel Church we visited Don Rigoberto who took upon himself to maintain and promote the Mayan heritage. Using corn grains placed on a home spun wool blanket he explained the basics of the intricate Mayan calendar. Not far from Don Rigoberto's house, we met the powerful San Simon. A chain smoking, rum drinking effigy of a drug lord, San Simon is a not a Catholic saint, but a hybrid of a Mayan deity, Judas, and Alvarado, the vicious conqueror of Guatemala. I purchased and lighted a pine nut (San Simon likes the smell), and asked him to cure my high-altitude headache. He did.

Guatemala is going to be fun.


For more photos, click below to see my Picasa Web Album

http://picasaweb.google.com/isaac.ohel/Guatemala#

The New Testament


For some time now, I have been curious about "Rough Guide", the British competitor to Lonely Planet. On this trip, I took along both the Bible (LP) and the New Testament (RG). My observations in one sentence: Lonely Planet has more information, Rough Guide is easier to use. For the winners by category, read below.
Data – LP.

Lonely planet lists more accommodations and restaurants. It also has some additional useful information. In Momostenango we received a private lecture on Mayan Cosmology by an indigenous teacher, who was listed only on LP.
Maps – RG (By a big margin)

RG maps of all scales (Regional, Local, and City) are drawn with more contrast and are easier to read. RG has more local maps, making navigation easier. On city maps, points of interest are labeled (not numbered), and to me, their method of indicating accommodations and restaurants seems more logical.

Organization – RG for drivers, LP for backpackers

RG arranges towns and villages in sequence of travelling along highways. LP clusters them around public transportation hubs. In LP the listing order seems to reflect their level of interest, rather than travel logistics.
Reading Pleasure – RG

The Rough guide style is more subjective and more fun to read.

Overall Winner - Lonely Planet

If I had to choose only one guide, I am a bit disappointed to say that it will continue to be the Bible.

Atlantic Rain

At the Isthmus of Tehuantepec someone pinched the North American Continent until a mere 200km of land separate between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The isthmus is infamous for its strong winds. The wind blew dust in our eyes when we walked the streets of Tehuantepec in the evening, and it was still blowing when we left in the morning on our way to the Guatemala border.
As we drove east across the isthmus, the height of the mountains separating the two oceans gradually diminished, while the north wind gradually increased. At first the wind was only an annoyance. Its howl hit the side of the pickup and made listening to music impossible. Adi switched the ipod off. Then Nemo started swaying. I reduced our speed, yet despite my concentration and effort, the strong gusts often pushed the car across the lane. Luckily, there were almost no other cars on the road. I saw that trucks were stopping under the overpasses, but I was too focused on driving to register the significance of what I saw. I finally 'got it' when I had to stop on the road behind three other cars. An overturned trailer-truck lay across the road like a dead cockroach. The tow-truck crews have clearly done this before. Within minutes they hoisted the big-rig back on its wheels and moved it to the shoulder. I continued on the deserted road, much slower, and much more afraid. We passed one more overturned truck before we reached a long line of trucks heading west, that stopped by the side of the road waiting for the wind to subside. From that point onward, the mountain range grew, and the wind slowly diminished.

During the drive through this wind tunnel, a light drizzle spread across the windshield. The knowledge that these raindrops rose out of the Atlantic Ocean to come down here, on the Pacific Coast, evoked in me a strong exotic emotion. For the rest of the drive to the border, I could not forget that emotion, nor did I understand its source. Did I envision myself to be Hernan Cortez, who after landing on the Atlantic Coast saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time here? Or was it the sensual excitement of embracing a continent by its slim waist? I hoped it was the second. Cortez is not too popular in this region.

P.S.  Just prior to publishing this blog, Jim C. informed me that the winds in the isthmus can reach 50 knots.

Decisions

Will dinner be Fish a la Diabla (for the second night in a row), or a Pizza? The spicy red snapper, grilled on a wood fire and served right on the sand, won. Life in Mazunte, on the Pacific coast of Mexico, is full of hard decisions. I fell asleep lulled by the sound of waves reaching shore only a few steps from our balcony, and woke up to a hearty breakfast in Dona Lupita's beach-front restaurant. However, after breakfast, I had another choice to make. Should I head for the South beach or the North beach? Both beaches have white warm sand, comfortable easy-chairs, and attentive restaurant service. The difference is in the waves. On the South beach, tall steep waves break on shore with the thunder of canons. They attract the expert surfers, whose graceful athletics I could enviously watch while sipping a cold beer. To the North the waves are slightly smaller, providing a playground for local kids on boogie boards. That day, the North beach was exceptionally calm. None of the local kids bothered to enter. Yet these friendly waves let Adi, who never tried this before, struggle chest-deep into the warm water, jump on her boogie board, and ride them all the way to shore. I ventured a little deeper, and was also rewarded with some wonderful rides.

After three days of enjoying the sand, waves, and the company of good friends, I faced a harder decision. Could I extricate myself from this relaxed Pacific paradise, and begin the journey to Guatemala? Adi, still glowing from the boogie board adventure, suggested that we could tell everyone that Guatemala is really beautiful, while we stay on the beach.

The next day, we loaded Nemo (my pickup) and got on the road. By evening we entered the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the narrow waist of the North American Continent. Here, five hundred years ago, King Cosijoesa the Zapotec king, repulsed the Aztecs from this strategic region, thus stopping the Southward expansion of their empire. However, few years later, he too was faced with a dilemma. He chose to ally himself with Hernan Cortez, the Spanish Conquistador in his fight against the Aztecs. To this day, the colorfully dressed Zapotecs who populate the city of Tehuantepec, remember and celebrate his victory. Somehow, they manage to ignore his unfortunate decision.

Noche de Rabanos


Hector dreaded the inevitable confrontation with his father. He did not say it in the morning, when they drove to the outskirts of Oaxaca to collect the radishes. Neither could he bring himself to say it when, back at the village, his mother joined them on the patio. A sharp radish smell filled the courtyard as the three of them carved the large red vegetables into the traditional figures. Just like previous years, Hector carved the musicians. He completed the trumpet player and glanced at his parents. Julian was carving buttons on the tall puppet, while Teresa, using a sharpened stick, peeled the skin off a long radish to form the skirt for the female puppet. The "Calenda", a depiction of the popular religious procession, will soon be ready for the "Night of Radishes" competition tomorrow. He could not delay any longer.

He put down his knife, "Father, there is something I would like to tell you. I decided to have my own booth in the competition."

Julian stopped carving without saying a word. He looked at his son; his weathered Indian face remained passive. Hector could sense the flood of disappointment and betrayal sweeping over his father's heart. He felt guilty for causing his father such pain.

"For several years, I have asked you to change the theme of our display." He continued, "You didn't want to do it. I had no choice."

"You had no choice," Julian repeated slowly in a calm voice, "then leave! I don't need your help." He turned away from his son and resumed carving.

Hector, felt the sharp pain of misunderstanding, but he too had his dignity. He stood and walked away. His mother tried to hold him back.

"Stop this foolishness" she implored her husband and son, but Julian kept carving without a response.

On his way out, Hector looked at the faded photograph on the wall. He saw his grandfather, proudly accepting the first prize in the Night of Radishes. That year, his grandfather chose the Calenda as his theme. Every year since then, the Mendez family presented the same scene in the Christmas event. When Hector became old enough to hold a knife, he joined his father to create their entry. He enjoyed the family time together; he also enjoyed the thousands of tourists and locals that flock to Oaxaca's Zocalo to enjoy the lavish radish sculptures.

In a friend's house, Hector set to work, his knife transforming the pile of radishes into the vision he nurtured for so many years. Before him was the figure that will be lying on the altar. With small, careful incisions, a round radish became an anguished face. Using a cactus spine, he connected it to the larger radish forming the body. He was ready to start on the work's centerpiece, the Zapotec Priest. He could clearly imagine the robes, the plumed hat, and the upraised arm holding the dagger.

The next morning, when he arrived at the Zocalo, the display tables were already placed along the edges of the town square. To the outside of the tables stretched an elevated walkway that enclosed the perimeter of the exhibition area. He knew his father was on the other side of the square, and he was glad he could not see him. He assembled the display on the table, his excitement and anticipation growing while the scene was taking form. At four, the show opened and the first visitors appeared on the walkway. He scrutinized their reactions with apprehension. Soon, the delight on their faces made it clear that they liked his display. Some even called out and congratulated him on his work. Satisfied, he relaxed, and sat behind the display, almost invisible. From his vantage point he could quietly enjoy the flashing cameras and admiring exclamations. The official results will come late at night.

After dark, when the stream of viewers became a thick, slow river, Julian could no longer contain his curiosity. He climbed the walkway and, with the rest of the visitors, made his way around the square. As he approached his son's booth, he moved to the back, and peered into the display. He was stunned. He knew Hector was a talented sculptor, but he has never seen figures formed with such an amazing detail. Their faces were full of emotion, and the ceremonial robes were cut with elaborate decorations. He absorbed the dramatic effect of the scene, and he sensed the others around him responding in the same way. A warm feeling welled up inside him. He was amazed that his own son produced this wonderful work of art. He was so proud of his son, and he knew that his own father was now here too, looking from above and smiling. Overcome with emotion, he did not notice that he wound up in the front line, staring at his son's work with wet, blurry eyes.

An inner instinct made Hector look up. He saw his father on the walkway; he read the emotions on his face. He crawled under the display table, emerged in front of his father, and helped him climb down. Without words, Julian put his hands on his son's shoulders, and they stood there, oblivious to the crowd, peering into each other's eyes. It was Hector's turn to shed tears of relief and happiness. His father embraced him tightly.

"It is wonderful, my son."

The clock on the Cathedral tower showed nine. It was time. Together, they entered the old colonial palace, and waited for the prizes to be announced. Teresa sat between husband and son, holding both their hands. The Oaxaca secretary of culture announced the third, then the second prize.

"The first prize," he continued, "a sum of 10,000 pesos, has been awarded to a scene from our pre-Columbian heritage…" his mother's grip tightened around Hector's hand, "…'The Sacrifice,' created by Family Mendez!"

In the roar of applause that followed, Hector observed his father's surprise turn into understanding. Rather than use his own name, he registered the booth to the whole family. Both Hector and Julian pushed Teresa forward to accept the prize.