On the week before Dia del Muertos, Patzcuaro turns gold. Temporary stalls on the sidewalks are heaped with Marigolds and Flowers of the Soul (type of Orchid) in a continuous tapestry of orange and violet. Indigenous women from the surrounding villages, wearing their traditional embroidered attire, add their own colors to the flower display. By the end of the week, both the city dwellers and the villagers will have purchase these huge quantities of flowers. In the city, the flowers are used to decorate elaborate home altars for the deceased family members. The villagers use the flowers for the Noche Del Muertos (Night of the Dead).
The village of Ihuatzio, like others around Lake Patzcuaro, is populated by the P’urhepecha, which are descendants of the original inhabitants of this region. They celebrate the Noche del Muertos in a creative mix of their indigenous rituals and the Catholic religion. On that evening, families arrive in the cemetery with wheel barrows full of flowers. They overlay the crosses with marigolds, cover the graves with marigold petals, and place the violet orchids for added effect. Fruits, sugar skulls, and the deceased favorite drink, are placed near the headstone as offerings. They believe that tonight, the spirits of the deceased are coming from the underworld for a visit. It’s a long journey, and they are making sure that the spirit is well-fed and happy. When darkness falls, they light candles around the gravesite as a beacon to light the way. Most families will spend the entire night in the cemetery to participate in the “Vigil for the Spirits”.
We came to Ihuatzio because we hoped that unlike some of the bigger villages, the Vigil will not be spoiled by tourist buses and drunken parties. We were not disappointed. The atmosphere was quiet and solemn, but at the same time, full of joy. The few other tourist that arrived, were also quiet and respectful. As we walked among the graves, the families returned our greetings with enthusiasm and asked us to join them. Exchange of the offerings is one of the customs of this night. As part of this custom, we were given some of the fruits and sugar skulls. We, in return, did our share by gifting those to the next family we visited. As the night grew colder we were happy to accept not just fruit but hot Pozole, a corn-based stew. It warmed my body, and surprisingly, tasted great. Up the street from the cemetery, the village provides activities for residents with shorter attention spans. Kids played in Inflatable trampolines and on an outdoor stage, local groups displayed their singing and dancing skills. We endured a couple of the performances, and walked back to the cemetery. As we left (alas, before dawn) I took one last look at the families huddled together around the glowing grave sites. It is a sight I will not forget.
For more of my Noche de los Muertos photos go to the link below. (You may have to copy and paste this on your browser.)
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