Volcan Paricutin

Angahuan is the closest village to Volcan Paricutin. At the village gate we were greeted by men offering guided horseback rides to the volcano. At an elevation of almost three thousand meters, volcano visitors are a large part of the village economy. During the holidays the guides are busy, but during our overnight stay, we were the only visitors to the village. Three thousand Pur’hepecha Indians live here. Their ancestors were a fierce and proud tribe who managed to resist the Aztec Empire. However, they were almost decimated by the Spanish conquistadors and the diseases they brought with them. In Patzcuaro we learned that the tribe descendants still keep some of their culture, but due to discrimination and shame, their language is almost lost. That did not happen in the more remote Angahuan. In the center of town, a tall loudspeaker continuously blared announcements in a language that was not Spanish. We were glad to learn that, in this village, Spanish is spoken only to visitors. Adults and kids alike, talk in Pur’hepecha. The loudspeaker, by the way, is a substitute for a market place. The various stores lining the dusty unpaved street use it to announce the daily specials. Luckily, the announcements cease for the night.

It was a cold night at that altitude. A fireplace and five blankets were barely enough to keep warm, but we managed to fall asleep. At eight, dressed in sweaters, jackets, and gloves, we met our guide Santiago, and set out for the two hour ride to the base of the volcano. Paricutin erupted in 1943, in the center of a fertile valley. It was active for ten years, and during that time, the lava flow covered two villages. No one was injured, but the villagers had to relocate to new settlements. We rode through lush Avocado groves, circling the vast impenetrable lava fields. At the base of the cone we dismounted and started climbing. On the way up we passed minor craters where the ground is warm, smoke comes out through cracks in the rocks, and rumbling and hissing can be heard from deep underground. It’s a short and easy hike to the rim, for an enjoyable view of the crater and the valley below. Angahuan can be viewed not too far in the distance, but the jagged lava rocks would make the direct path a very unpleasant hike. According to Santiago, last month a tourist attempted the return on her own. She lost her way in the lava maze and had to be rescued the next day. After circling the crater, it was time to go down. A path of grey volcanic ash leads straight down from the rim to the base. The path is steep and clear of rocks. It is a perfect place to bring a used snow board. Lacking the board, I pointed my Teva sandals downhill and started running. Each stride started with a leap, continued with a long slide, and ended knee-deep in the sand. Ofer would have loved it. I almost climbed back up to try it again.

On the ride back we passed the San Juan church. The lava here is nine meters deep covering all but the church towers. It flowed through the long church interior and stopped abruptly at the base of the altar. The altar was not touched. Milagro (Miracle.) Near the church, a Pur’hepecha woman prepared some quesadillas for us. The tortillas were made from blue corn flour which has a delicious taste and texture. As Doron says, it hit the spot.

We left Patzcuaro to escape the cold, and found ourselves in an even colder place. Santiago, likes the cold climate. Cold is better than hot, he says, though he admits that he never left the village. For us, it was time to head for the playas.