Smiles

"Which country do you like the most?"

"Laos." would have been my quick reply until recently (See note). However after visiting Indonesia, it is harder for me to choose. While analyzing the tie, I realized that both countries occupy the first place because of their people, and that the distinguishing feature of both peoples is their smile. It's an innocent and friendly smile that radiates a genuine joy of seeing me, a visitor, at their home.

The children are the best at it. "Halo Mister" they shout gleefully, regardless of the gender of the recipient. They have an uncanny ability to identify a foreigner speeding on a motorbike. The brave among them stand by the side of the road, arms extended, palms open. Since I am afraid to let go of the handle bar, it became Adi's job to return the expected "High Five" slap. Adults are quieter. They look at your eyes directly, but not intrusively, and smile. If I return the smile with a greeting of "Salamat Pagi, or another Salamat if it is not morning," the smile beams wide. "Pagi" they reply happily. Young women add a charming giggle to their response.

I cannot explain why youngsters and adults alike delight in greeting foreigners. It seems that in both countries the tourist is no longer a novelty to be approached with fear or curiosity, yet still rare enough to provide some fun and diversion. Unfortunately, it may be only a temporary stage in the developmental road. A road that leads either to a high quality, good value, tourism industry as in Thailand, or to a situation where exploiting the tourist is a national objective, as in Vietnam.

In the meantime, while riding my motorbike on a country road, I can still fall in love each time I see a slim young woman with long black hair, walking towards me, a warm smile on her tanned face, and those deep dark eyes, so inviting. My heart beats faster, until she disappears from my side-view mirror.

I think I watched the movie "South Pacific" one time too many.

Note: Oaxaca, which feels almost like a second home, was not allowed to participate in this contest.

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