Not to push my luck on the first try, I chose "Los Pacos", a notch or two above our usual fare, but designated (1) with just three peso-symbols (2). The pumpkin-flower soup had the hearty rich flavor of home cooking, and generated a smile of surprise and satisfaction. For the main dish we selected three of Oaxaca's seven moles (sauces). The green mole (over meat), deep-red mole (over chicken), and Oaxaca's trademark black mole, were segregated by low mounds of rice. We sampled the delicacies, rolling each in its own corn tortilla. I am familiar with the various moles, yet here, the flavor seemed more complex and enjoyable. I remarked that food tastes better in a quiet restaurant, with attentive staff, and colorful art on the walls. Her mouth full, Adi nodded in agreement.
After dinner, we walked to Santo Domingo, one of Mexico's most beautiful churches. Inside, in celebration of the Saint's Day, a chorus and orchestra performed pieces by Bach, Mozart, and others. Sitting under the tall decorated vaults, surrounded by intricately carved, gold gilded altar pieces, I was moved by the echoing music. The familiar "Ave Maria"s, and "Gloria"s sounded fresh and inspiring.
In the cool evening air, I reviewed the not-so-profound lesson the mole and Mozart taught me this evening, "Environment makes a big difference." Adi agreed, but quickly added that tonight's mole would have been superior even sitting on a stool in the market. I was glad that July was a success, and I can look forward to August.
Notes
(1) "Oaxaca Tips" by Carole Turkenik
(2) Dinner for one $23.
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