NIght and Day

Hoof steps disturb the silence. The rider, an early riser heading for the market, tips his hat, and we respond with "Buenos Dias".  The horse leaves the only blemish on the shiny cobble stones.  We are soon out of town.  In the orchards besides our path, men and women are harvesting red coffee berries.  We taste some.  The mountain air is cool and fresh, and we enjoy the exertion.  We are headed for a waterfall that played a prominent role in the movie Romancing the Stone.  We cross a rickety suspended bridge that hangs hundreds of feet above the canyon.  The movie bridge is still there, too dangerous for use.  We descend a steep narrow trail carved into the face of the cliff and reach a view of the waterfall.  The fall are impressive, even without Michael and Kathleen.  Back in town, we stroll along the main street and admire the colorful ceramic tiles that decorate the colonial-style buildings.

The music that drifts into our room signals the start (an hour late) of the evening parade. We squeeze our way to the front, and watch the illuminated floats and the marching samba clubs.  From here, it's a short walk to Plazuela Campana, our favorite spot.  We learned to avoid the huge crowds at the seafront concert, and the equally-crowded Zocalo. A narrow alley leads into the plaza which is enclosed on all sides by three-story buildings.  At night, you can't see their dilapidated exterior.  Plastic tables are arranged on the periphery of the plaza. In the front, the band is preparing to play.  We join another couple at one of the tables.  By the end of the evening, they become our friends.  We order a beer, and as the music starts, we step to the center.  For the rest of the night the bands change, and we keep on dancing to the Cuban rhythms.

Sounds ideal?  In reality, these are two separate places.  In pretty Xico (HEE-CO), there is absolutely nothing to do after dark.  Veracruz during the day, is humid and grimy, busily cleaning the debris of last night's debauchery.  We came to Veracruz to dance in the Carnaval, and we continued to Xico, to decompress.  The port city and the "Magical town" are very different, yet both served our purpose well.

To be fair, Xico has its day of excitement during the town fiesta, when dozens of bulls, are released into the streets, and chase the crowd a-la Pamplona.  Veracruz has its daytime attractions.  If you order Cafe Lechero in the Gran Cafe de la Parroquia, a waiter pours boiling milk into your coffee, from a height well above your head, without spilling a drop.